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Growing Lavender

Time: Perennial; full harvest from year 2 · Difficulty: Easy · Season: Plant spring or fall; perennial

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is perhaps the most widely loved medicinal herb in the world — and rightly so. It calms the nervous system, promotes sleep, relieves headaches, soothes burns and skin irritation, and repels insects, all while being one of the most visually beautiful and fragrant plants in the garden. Once established, lavender is tough, long-lived, and almost effortless. A well-grown lavender plant can produce for 15–20 years.

Method

  1. Lavender is most reliably grown from cuttings or transplants rather than seed. If starting from seed, surface sow in early spring and cold stratify (place seed tray in refrigerator for 4 weeks). Germination is slow — 2–4 weeks.
  2. Plant in full sun — 8+ hours is ideal. Lavender absolutely requires excellent drainage. In heavy clay, plant in raised beds or amend heavily with grit and coarse sand. Wet roots in winter kill lavender faster than cold temperatures.
  3. Space plants 18–24 inches apart. Do not crowd — good airflow prevents the fungal issues that lavender is susceptible to in humid conditions.
  4. Water consistently in year one to establish the root system. After year one, reduce watering significantly. Established lavender is very drought-tolerant.
  5. Harvest flower spikes when one-third to one-half of the florets on the spike are open. Cut long stems and bundle in loose groups of 8–10. This is when fragrance and essential oil content are highest.
  6. Prune plants hard immediately after the main bloom flush — cut back by one-third to one-half to prevent woodiness and encourage a second bloom. Never cut into old wood below the green growth.
  7. In colder climates, mulch around (not on top of) the base of plants in late autumn with coarse gravel to improve drainage and protect roots.

Tips & Notes

#lavender#calming#sleep#aromatherapy#skin healing#insect repellent#herbs

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